Windows Wednesdays – Keeping Your Favorite Apps Closer, Part 2

Start Menu Pinned Section

Last week, we saw how to pin program icons to the Taskbar. This week, we will have a closer look at the improved Start Menu.

In Windows 11, as in Windows 10, the Taskbar is “prime real estate”. In fact, it’s the most valuable prime real estate, since it displays key controls, like the Start button, clock and network status, pinned program icons and icons for programs that are running. Taskbar behavior in Windows 11 is somewhat more intelligent than in Windows 10, at least to a point. In Windows 10, an overloaded Taskbar used to spawn a second, hidden tier with an up/down arrow control to the right for switching between tiers. It was a usable solution, but a bit clumsy. In Windows 11, the Taskbar decreases the size of the icons as you open more programs. When there are too many icons to display at once, the Taskbar sprouts a vertical separator line, like this:

The separator line is indicated by the red oval.

It’s not clear to me, as of this writing, how to access the overflow icons on the right side of the separator. However, the Taskbar’s usability is effectively negated long before the vertical line appears. By the time you have a dozen programs running, the Taskbar is essentially just a long, unsorted list, and it’s too difficult to recognize the reduced-size icon of any program you might be looking for. At that point, it’s easier to use another method of task switching, such as [Alt][Tab], to switch between programs. So, it’s best to only pin your most frequently used icons. For most people, that’s just three or four. But what about the icons for your not-so-frequently used, but still favorite applications?

The most logical place to put those icons is the Start Menu. Microsoft greatly simplified the Start menu in Windows 11. In Windows 10, pinning icons to the Start Menu was something of a free-for-all. You could pin as many as you wanted and move them around, and there was even a way to organize them into sections. But moving and organizing icons in the Windows 10 Start Menu was cumbersome and unintuitive, so most users never learned how to do it. In Windows 11, the Start Menu has just two sections: a Pinned section and a Recommended section. For today, we will focus our attention on the Pinned section.

The Pinned section of the Windows 11 Start Menu can display up to 18 icons at a time. You can pin more, but if you do, then your Pinned section will grow additional panels: a second one when you pin the 19th icon, a third one when you pin the 37th icon, and so on. You’ll be able to navigate among the panels using a series of vertical dots, an up arrow and a down arrow to the right of the icons, similar to how the home screens on a smartphone work. But I’m not going to show you this, at least not now, because having that many icons on the Start Menu detracts from its convenience. Besides that, few people have that many favorite applications, so 18 icons are more than enough.

You can also unpin icons from the Pinned section of the Start Menu, and you can drag and drop icons to rearrange them to your liking. Let’s see how this works.

As of this writing, my Start Menu looks like this:

First, let’s remove a couple of unused icons. I don’t use the Facebook app, and I’ve never used the Windows Tips app. So, I right-click on Facebook, and click “Unpin from Start”, as shown:

Repeat this for the Tips icon, and now my Start Menu looks like this:

Next, I’ll pin a new icon to my Start Menu. I use Firefox frequently (along with Microsoft Edge and Google Chrome), so it would be nice to have it closer at hand. Pinning an icon to the Start Menu is very easy in Windows 11, because when you right-click on any program icon in Windows 11, no matter where or how you found it (in the Taskbar, search results, the All Apps list, the Desktop or File Explorer), the context menu includes “Pin to Start”. So, I’ll search for Firefox, right-click on it and click “Pin to Start”:

Almost done! My Start Menu now looks like this:

But it would be nice to have all my web browsers grouped together. This is also quite easy, as it’s just a couple of simple drag-and-drop operations. I start by clicking and holding (with the left mouse button) on the Firefox icon, and dragging it next to Edge, as shown:

The other icons obligingly shift to the right to make room, and when I release the left mouse button, the Firefox icon drops right where I want it, next to Edge. After I repeat this for Google Chrome, my Start Menu looks like this:

Now it’s your turn. Try unpinning icons you don’t need, pinning icons you want to get to more quickly, and rearranging icons on your Start Menu to see how much better you can make the menu work for you!

Windows Wednesdays – Keeping Your Favorite Apps Closer, Part 1

Start Menu Pinned Section

Everyone who has used Windows for awhile knows how to keep your most frequently used programs close at hand: just create a desktop shortcut for that program, of course. But what if you’re one of those desktop packrats whose Windows desktop is an unsorted, edge-to-edge array of program shortcuts and data file icons? Enter the Start Menu shortcut.

Displaying the Start Menu has been simple enough in all versions of Windows since Windows 95 (except for Windows 8, which used a “Start Screen” that behaved differently, but we’ll ignore that for now). Just click your Start button or press the Windows key (the key with the Windows logo on it), and there it is.

Pressing the Windows key also makes the Windows 11 Taskbar appear, if you have yours set to automatically hide itself when you aren’t interacting with it. If you didn’t set your Taskbar to auto-hide, then it’s visible all the time. Either way, this Taskbar functionality is identical to prior versions of Windows, going back all the way to Windows 95. What has changed in Windows 11 is that it’s easier to pin frequently-used icons to the Taskbar that it was in Windows 10 and Windows 8, and that’s what today’s Windows Wednesdays installment is all about.

The steps for pinning an icon to the Taskbar vary, depending on where you find the icon. For example, if you find the icon in the All Apps list…

… then right-click on the program icon you want to pin (Audacity, in this example)…

… then click on More, which displays a fly-out menu …

… and, finally, click on “Pin to taskbar”. Your icon is now pinned to the Taskbar, as shown here:

It’s actually a little easier to pin an icon from Windows Search. Click the Start button or press the Windows key on your keyboard to display the Start menu.

Then begin typing. Optionally, you can click first in the “Type here to search” field, but if you don’t, Windows will know to send your keystrokes to that field. In this example, we’re searching for Audacity. As indicated by the gray characters at the end of the word in the “Type here to search” field, as shown below, even before we finish typing the name of the program, Windows has already made a good guess as to what we want!

Now, right-click on Audacity from the search hits, and “Pin to Taskbar” appears in the context menu, as shown below. Just click “Pin to Taskbar” to finish up.

It’s easier still to pin an icon that’s currently on the Start Menu. But why would I want to do that? After all, both the Taskbar and the Start Menu are prime real estate in Windows 11, aren’t they? The most logical reason to pin something that’s already on the Start Menu to the Taskbar would be as the first step in moving it from the Start Menu to the Taskbar. I would only do this for an icon that I use very often, so often that I don’t even want to have to click the Start button to get to it.

Calculator is an app that I use often enough that might want to move to the Taskbar, so I’ll use that as an example. First, click the Start button.

Next, right-click on the Calculator icon.

Finally, click “Pin to Taskbar” from the context menu.

That’s all there is to it.

There are still more “Pin to Taskbar” instances I could show you, such as pinning an icon from File Explorer or from the Desktop, but this is already a very long post, so I think I will save those for later installments about managing the Start Menu and changes to File Explorer.

Don’t Get Phished While You’re Out Surfing!

A significant chunk of my weekend was spent helping a home client deal with a serious data breach. It’s not clear if they got phished, fell for clickbait that took them to a compromised site or fell prey to some other ploy, but they somehow ran a bit of malicious code that deviously (meaning using methods that go unnoticed by mainstream anti-malware software) dropped the portable version of a popular remote access program on the computer and then set a scheduled task to run it after a period of inactivity, allowing the criminals to look through the files on the computer at will.

This morning, I received an e-mail from PCMag.com that, serendipitously, included an article about how to spot malicious web pages. As much as I enjoy writing about the technological ups and downs that I encounter as an IT consultant, Neil J. Rubenking’s career as an author of technical articles dates back to before my own career began, and he said it better than I ever could. Consider this article a must-read! https://www.pcmag.com/how-to/how-to-avoid-phishing-scams

You Can Always Reinstall Your Software… or can you?

One frustration that clients face when recovering from a computer failure or moving to a new computer is reinstalling their productivity software. (Productivity software is the software you use to do your job: for example, Microsoft Office and Adobe Creative Cloud.) This is a minor frustration compared with what it takes to recover data that wasn’t backed up, but it’s still hard to be productive when you have all your data but you’ve lost the software that you use to create and maintain it.

Once software is installed on a computer, the installation source and any license numbers are out of sight, out of mind for most people. Thus, they tend to misplace the files and information they used to install it, despite warnings from software companies to hold onto them. Today, I am going to explain why it’s important to make sure you keep those things safely stored and documented.

Many computer users fail to understand that while data can be easily copied from one computer to another, most software cannot be, at least on Windows computers. Software that runs under Windows typically includes common files that are stored in the Windows folders, other common files that are stored in shared folders within the Program Files or Program Files (x86) folders, configuration files stored in subfolders of the invisible ProgramData folder and the user’s invisible AppData folder, and Windows Registry settings. Because of this, most software made for Windows computers must be properly installed within Windows in order to run. There are utilities that purport to transfer software from one copy of Windows to another, but I’ve never seen one that works well. There is simply no substitute for making sure your installation source and license information are available.

“Just make full image backups!”, I hear some people answer. (A full image backup is a snapshot of absolutely everything stored on a computer, which, when restored, transforms the computer to exactly the way it was at the time the backup was made.) Unfortunately, while this can work around the problem in some cases, it’s not a cure-all. Full image backups take a long time to make, relative to data-only backups, and also consume much larger amounts of storage space. It’s expensive to make and keep full image backups of all your computers locally, and generally impractical to make them online. And restoring a full image backup is really most helpful after you’ve repaired a failed computer. Using them to load up a new computer often results in system instability. (The “restore to dissimilar hardware” feature found in some image backup software is best for restoring a backed up computer temporarily a new computer, just long enough to get everything you need off of it, and then restoring the new computer back to the operating system that came with it.) Full image backups are also not much help when a single program becomes corrupt. Who wants to restore an entire full image backup just to regain access to Adobe Acrobat Pro, for example?

For the installation sources, I recommend using both of the following methods: First, keep any original media, such as CDs, DVDs, USB flash drives and downloaded files. (Downloaded files can be stored on whatever media are most convenient for you.) If the media didn’t come in an easily stored box, folio or envelope labeled with its name and version, then put it in something that can be so labeled. You can designate a drawer, cabinet shelf or box to hold these. Second, for redundancy and convenience, you should also copy your original media. (It’s completely legal to do this for the purpose of making sure you don’t lose your software. It’s only illegal if you share your copies with someone else.) If you have a network server or network attached storage device (NAS), you can create a software installations share on it and copy your installation media to subfolders within that share. Again, be sure that one way or another, you preserve the software titles, versions, system requirements and any special installation instructions for each program.

Similarly, you should keep at least two copies of your license keys on hand. The first should be kept in printed form with your original installation media. For example, if you purchased QuickBooks on CD, be sure you store one copy of the license key for QuickBooks with the CD. For the second copy, I recommend a document or spreadsheet into which you transcribe your license keys — and be sure to double-check your transcriptions. Your document or spreadsheet can be stored with the copies you made of your original installation media for your software.

Nowadays, many software titles are distributed electronically. You purchase the software online, and the company e-mails you the license information and a link to download the installation files. It’s fine to keep track of the license keys by keeping the original e-mails in an easy-to-find folder in your e-mail, if you like. However, the software companies may not keep the installers available for download in perpetuity, so it’s a good idea to keep a copy or two of the downloaded installers.

One final note: Some software, like QuickBooks, is provided to you when you purchase it, and the software company periodically sends out updates for it during its lifecycle. As with original installers, though, the software company may not keep the updates available forever. That can be a problem for software like QuickBooks, in which updates may alter the data files and render them unusable with older builds of the software. So, if the updates are provided via download, it’s a good idea to keep copies of the updates with the original installers. (Some updates are just that – updates – while others are free-standing installers that will install the latest build of a particular program.)

Unfortunately, there are some software packages that download and apply their updates autonomously, without the company providing you a download to install. If you have to reinstall a program like that too long past what the software company considers end-of-life for that program, then you may have no choice but to purchase the latest version. If your company depends on any such software, it’s best to be proactive about making sure you’re always using a supported version, even if that means buying and upgrading to the newest version every few years.

Properly maintaining your software library will make the difference between a smooth computer restoration or replacement, or suffering serious loss of productivity when equipment fails or must be replaced. It makes sense to take care of this before an emergency arises. If you don’t feel up to doing it yourself, then please don’t hesitate to hire Lebowitz IT Services to help you organize your software installers and license keys.

What’s a Good Brand Of…?

Random tech logos

One of the most common questions people ask me is “What’s a good brand of ______?” You can fill in the blank with whatever technology product you can imagine buying, but my answer is nearly always the same: “There is no good brand of ______. All companies that sell these products make some that I feel comfortable recommending and some that I don’t.” (That answer is not entirely truthful. There are a few manufacturers that make nothing I’m willing to recommend. But I’m not talking about them today.) People don’t like to hear this answer, because it requires them to pay attention to details that they would rather not have to think about. In today’s post, I’m going to tell you why I won’t simply recommend brands when requested. It all comes down to two concepts that I’m sure marketing professionals have more polite phrases for, but I call them Brand Dilution and Brand Prostitution.

Brand Dilution is what happens when a company has a brand that has a reputation for something that people like and respect, but then they begin using that brand to sell products that don’t measure up. For example, in the mid-1980s, Toshiba began producing laptops. Toshiba wasn’t the first company to make laptops, but their laptops were such an improvement on what had been available up to that point that they’re described by many industry pundits as the world’s first mass-market laptops. Toshiba soon earned a reputation for making laptops that were reliably sturdy, powerful, dependable and easier to live with than most others. (Note that we’re talking about a time in which a 16-pound laptop was considered portable, and 45 minutes of runtime per battery charge was considered long!) People came to expect that any laptop bearing the Toshiba brand would be a high-quality laptop.

But after a number of years, Toshiba introduced laptops that were cheaper, both in price and quality. Imagine my surprise the first time I encountered one of those: it was slow to the point of hanging constantly, and it felt downright rickety in my hands. I couldn’t understand why Toshiba would put their highly-respected name on such a piece of junk! The owner of the laptop couldn’t understand it either, and, not surprisingly, that was the last Toshiba branded computer she ever bought. Over time, I learned that if one wanted a high-quality Toshiba laptop, one had to shop for one of their Tecra or Portege models, which could only be found in places where businesses purchased computer equipment, and not in the big-box stores that had become the primary sellers of consumer electronics. But to people who don’t buy computer equipment on a regular basis, that distinction is invisible. It didn’t take long before most people came to regard Toshiba laptops as junk, and eschewed them in favor of other brands. It didn’t take the big-box retailers much longer than that to realize they weren’t selling many Toshiba laptops, after which they stopped carrying them.

Toshiba never managed to repair their brand image as far as laptops were concerned. They eventually sold off their laptop division to Sharp Corporation, which now produces Satellite Pro, Portege, Tecra and E models under the DynaBook brand. But I have never seen a DynaBook brand laptop in person, and I don’t know where to buy one other than online at the DynaBook web site. (That’s the danger of diluting your brand: you can damage it beyond hope of repair.)

Brand Prostitution is similar, but it happens when a company is indiscriminate about licensing use of their brand name by other companies. The harm to the brand is done when a licensee produces inferior products that are then sold under the brand name, thus compromising the brand’s reputation for high quality. For example, Verbatim was a company that became well-known for producing high-quality diskettes in the 1970s and ’80s, and since then has expanded into other storage products, including recordable CD and DVD blanks as well as flash storage media, like USB flash drives and SD cards. But Verbatim, the company, was acquired by Mitsubishi in 1990, and by 1994, it was nothing more than a brand name owned by Mitsubishi, and, most recently, CMC. Apparently, the brand wasn’t important to Mitsubishi, because they became quite cavalier about the products sold under the Verbatim label. Some Verbatim-branded products are made in factories owned by their parent company, and are excellent. Others are made under license by factories owned by other companies, and the quality, in my experience, is inconsistent. So, if you were to ask me, “Are Verbatim brand USB flash drives good?”, I would have to answer, “I really don’t know. It depends on who made the ones in the package you bought.”

My perception is that both Brand Dilution and Brand Prostitution are common in nearly all market sectors nowadays, and the result is that the consistency of product quality within brands is quite low. That’s why I refuse to make blanket brand recommendations. If I make a product recommendation, it will most likely be for specific models, and then only because my personal experience with those models has been positive.

Adventure of the Week: Unexpected Synergy

Ethernet Jacks

The photo above is of a pair of Ethernet jacks, the kind we see on the backs of desktop computers and don’t really think about unless they mysteriously stop working properly, something they rarely do. That’s not to say that network connections never malfunction; it’s just that when they do, it’s rarely the fault of the network jack in the computer. Today’s tale is about a pair of problems that a client asked me to fix. One was that his network was down, and the other was a computer that wouldn’t boot normally, and those problems turned out to be related in a very unexpected way.

The more pressing issue that the client had was that none of his computers could connect to his network, even though all the cables appeared to be in the right places and all the expected network indicator lights were on or flashing, whichever was appropriate. His ISP had sent a field technician out to look at it, and the technician had concluded that the problem wasn’t with their equipment. This client is fairly tech-savvy, and had spent some time troubleshooting his LAN equipment – which consisted of the ISP’s gateway, a simple, unmanaged network switch and half a dozen CAT8 cables, one connecting the gateway to the switch, and the rest connecting computers to the switch.

No, CAT8 was not a typo. This client is using Category 8 Ethernet cables, which are intended for high-speed, short-range use in data centers and usually not deployed in office settings. This client obviously didn’t read up on IEEE, CCITT and ISO network cabling standards before buying these. But while I conducted some of my tests using a more appropriate CAT6 cable, that was mainly to rule out the idea that unorthodox use of CAT8 might be causing his problems. I was not, in fact, there to troubleshoot the network cables, as they had been in use for quite some time and the problem had only appeared a week or so before my visit.

Naturally, I concentrated my attention on the network switch, which is an unmanaged, 8-port PoE model (although the client doesn’t have any PoE devices). You might ask why I didn’t start with the gateway, which is one of those all-in-one cable modem/router/wifi devices that incorporates a 4-port switch. After all, many cable Internet companies deploy these to their customers, and they’ve been known to cause problems, mainly with VoIP phone service. But this client doesn’t have any VoIP phones, and the one computer that was communicating properly over the network was plugged directly into the gateway, So, the mystery was why the computer plugged directly into the router was working fine, but any computer plugged into the switch either failed to obtain an IP address, or, if it did manage to get a valid TCP/IP setup from the DHCP server (in the gateway), it still could not communicate on the network afterward. So, the logical place to start seemed to be the switch.

The client had a couple of spare network switches, so I tried swapping switches — no change. I checked and re-checked all the connections; again, everything appeared to be hooked up correctly. It made no difference if I connected up using my CAT6 cable or the client’s CAT8 one. If I connected my laptop to the gateway, my laptop got a working connection, but if I plugged into the switch, it didn’t. It seemed unlikely that all three switches were bad, especially since one of which was just a few weeks old.

So, I then turned my attention to the ISP’s gateway. I had never seen that particular model gateway before, so maybe there was some obscure setting in it that had could affect a connected switch and had accidentally been changed. But no matter where I looked in the gateway’s administration GUI, I couldn’t find any settings that might be responsible for causing issues with the switch.

So much for the places where I most often find this sort of trouble. I now had to start looking at the rest of the network. In a typical home or small business network, plugging certain kinds of rogue devices into the switch can bring down the network. Fortunately, this was a small network, and it was pretty much down anyway, so I unplugged all the client’s network cables from the switch, except for the one that connected it to the gateway, and then plugged just my laptop into the switch. Aha, now I was getting somewhere! My laptop was instantly assigned a valid IP configuration and went online.

Next, I began plugging the client’s network cables back in one by one, testing with my laptop after each. Since we’re only talking about four cables, it didn’t take long to find the problematic one. What surprised me, though, is that the cable that brought the network back down turned out to be plugged into the second problem I was asked to fix: the computer that didn’t work.

It’s instructive to note that a modern computer’s Ethernet jack works even if the computer is turned off, as long as a) it’s plugged into a working electrical outlet, b) the power supply is at least working well enough to energize the system board, and c) the Wake-On-LAN setting in the system board’s BIOS hasn’t been turned off. Apparently, this computer’s Ethernet jack was not only energized, but was also transmitting a constant stream of garbage data out over the network cable. That stream was causing the network outage.

The computer turned out to have some strange things about it. First of all, it has two network jacks instead of the usual one. (Two network jacks is quite common when the computer in question is a network server, but this one was a custom-built, but otherwise fairly ordinary, desktop PC, albeit one equipped with high-end components.) One of the jacks was, in fact, connected to the cable from the network switch. The other one was incorrectly connected to a network printer via a standard Ethernet patch cable. I had to explain to the client that such a connection doesn’t work, particularly not without a special crossover cable, and not without at least setting a static IP address on the printer. But even with a crossover cable, such a configuration was unlikely to make the printer work, so I removed the Ethernet cable that had connected the PC directly to the printer.

But could that unworkable connection have caused the network to go down? That seemed unlikely, because, as mentioned earlier, that computer wasn’t working. OK, to be more precise, it wasn’t running an operating system, because, as I would find out later, its power supply was failing. The system board was getting enough power in its off state to energize its Ethernet jacks, but unless there is something very strange about the way those Ethernet jacks were connected to the system board, having a printer improperly plugged into one of them shouldn’t have caused the other one to create problems on the network.

A failing power supply can, theoretically, cause a component like an onboard Ethernet module to fail, but this, too, seemed unlikely under the circumstances. The power supply in the computer was good enough to get the computer through its power-on self-test. It only failed shortly before or after Windows 10 displayed the logon screen, at which point it would shut down.

So, it seemed more likely that the Ethernet jack connected to the (correct) network cable had gone bad. Or maybe the Ethernet adapter circuitry to which that jack is soldered went bad. Either way, moving the network connection to the other Ethernet jack seems to have solved the network problem. Now the client is waiting on a new power supply for that computer.

The moral of the story is that after you’ve eliminated all the common causes for a common problem, be sure to investigate the uncommon causes before giving up.

Introducing Windows Wednesdays!

Microsoft’s recent release of Windows 11 has spurred a fair amount of online chatter, much of it negative. However, whether the online talking heads like it or not, it is here, and a look at computer sellers’ advertisements and store displays makes it clear that if you’re shopping for a new computer, there’s a very good chance that the one you bring home is going to come with Windows 11 installed on it. Since I’m in the business of supporting computer equipment, and it stands to reason that it won’t be long before I start getting calls from people who need help with Windows 11, I decided it was best for me to begin familiarizing myself with the new operating system. So, when Windows Update offered me the upgrade free of charge on my laptop, I accepted the upgrade. And as long as I’m getting up close and personal with Windows 11, it occurred to me that this also presented me with a great opportunity to re-animate my stagnant blog by sharing my experiences with you. As an adorer of alliteration, I have decided to post these experiences midweek every week (at least until I run out of experiences) on what we will call Windows Wednesdays.

Let’s start with a very basic question: Should I get it, and, if so, how?

The first part of that question brings to mind a host of tired comparisons and recommendations from online pundits, most of whom have only experienced a pre-release version of Windows 11 and maybe not even that. “You never want to get Version 1.0 of anything.” “You can always tell who the pioneers are; they’re the ones with arrows in their backs.” “It’s evolutionary, not revolutionary.” And while there is truth to such statements, I can tell you that, at very least, Windows 11 has been quite stable for me. That’s not to say there haven’t been a few glitches. For example, after the first update Microsoft pushed out (about 48 hours after I got the upgrade), my laptop developed an irritating habit of losing Internet access over its wi-fi connection. A new cumulative update I received last night (six days after I got the upgrade) seems to have cleared that up. But this is no worse than my initial experiences with Windows 11’s predecessor, Windows 10. Sure, it’s going to take a little while to shake all the bugs out, but so far, I haven’t encountered any show stoppers, just annoyances. At the moment, I’m not recommending that anyone rush out to get Windows 11, but I have yet to encounter any problems serious enough to advise avoiding it altogether.

If you want Windows 11 on your current computer, there are two ways to get it: Windows Update and direct download. If your computer runs Windows 10 now, and you open the Windows Update window (click the Start button, then the Settings icon, then click Update and security from the Settings window), you will probably see one of three messages about Windows 11: If your computer passes Microsoft’s Windows 11 compatibility checks and Microsoft has made the upgrade available to you, you will be able to click on a link to get it right then and there. If your computer passed the compatibility checks but Microsoft has not yet made the upgrade available to you, the message will tell you, essentially, to stay tuned. If your computer did not pass the compatibility checks, you will see a message saying your computer is not compatible, and, in that case, Microsoft will not offer you the upgrade.

If you’re in a hurry to get Windows 11 for some reason, you can download an installer on your own from https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows11. The installer will run the same compatibility checks that Windows Update runs, though, so if Windows Update tells you that your computer is not compatible, this download will not install Windows for you, either.

So what makes your computer compatible or incompatible with Windows 11? The most publicized requirement for Windows 11 is the presence of a TPM v2.0 chip in your computer. TPM stands for Trusted Platform Module, and it’s a hardware security chip that, up to this point, has mostly been used in corporate PCs as a hook for network security systems employed by medium to large businesses. Windows 11 uses TPM v2.0 to make it more difficult for cyber-criminals to gain access to computers. Other requirements for Windows 11 are much more conventional, and generally any computer that runs Windows 10 will meet them. There is plenty of information about this elsewhere online, as well as several methods for getting around the TPM v2.0 requirement. These, as well as the reliability of the TPM work-arounds, are beyond the scope of what I want to discuss in this series, so I will not be investigating them. I’ll simply say that if the compatibility checks indicate that your computer isn’t compatible with Windows 11, then that’s as good an excuse as any to stick with Windows 10 until you buy a new computer.

Will Microsoft attempt to force users to install Windows 11, as they did with Windows 10? As of right now, the answer appears to be no. Between the TPM requirement and, no doubt, lessons learned from the by-hook-or-by-crook automatic upgrades when Windows 10 first came out, Microsoft doesn’t seem to be pushing Windows 11 aggressively, at least not to Windows 10 users.

Should you get Windows 11? The fact is that at this time, there is no good reason why you should. At least for the time being, Windows 11 doesn’t do anything that Windows 10 can’t, there is no software on the market at this time that requires Windows 11, and Microsoft has announced that Windows 10 will be supported until October 14, 2025. So, if you’re currently using Windows 10 and you’re happy with it, then stick with Windows 10 and don’t worry about upgrading. If you recently purchased a new computer that came with Windows 11 or is being offered Windows 11, or you are considering purchasing one in the near future, then stay tuned and enjoy this series.

And don’t worry, most of the entries in this series will be much shorter than this one!

Why I Don’t Fix Printers

I get this question all the time: “Do you fix printers?” My pat answer to that question is “No”, because most of the printers I’m asked to look at are cheaper to replace than to have me fix, and the few that aren’t require special training and access to dealer/authorized servicer parts that I simply can’t get. That said, many SOHO printers can actually be fixed without breaking the bank, but only if you have the basic repair skills and time to do it yourself, and if your time wouldn’t be better spent doing something else.

I will illustrate this by relating my recent experience fixing my own printer, a Canon MAXIFY MB5120. In short, this printer is a beefed-up inkjet all-in-one that offers faster-than-average printing and scanning, better-than-average paper handling, automatic duplex printing and scanning and a host of networking options that make it accessible to all my devices, whether they’re computers, tablets or phones, both at home and via the Internet. But at the heart of all that, it’s still an inkjet printer, and it’s subject to the same problems that affect all inkjet printers. The most common of those problems is clogging of the print head, and that’s exactly what happened to my MB5120.

Inkjet print heads get clogged for many reasons. Most often, the cause is disuse. Printer ink is a liquid that gets sprayed on the page by the print head (in a highly ordered way, of course, so as to make clear, sharp, full-color printouts with crisp text) and dries there to make the printout permanent. Obviously, in order for the ink to dry before you get a chance to smear the printout, it needs to be formulated to dry very quickly when exposed to air. But as an old, possibly obscure song says, “The air, the air is everywhere.” That includes inside your printer, just outside of the print head. If left undisturbed long enough, that ink just inside the print head will dry out and harden, clogging the head. That’s why inkjet printer experts advise users to print, and print often, preferably in full color. (That’s right — that setting your boss wants you to use to print monochrome on your office’s color laser printer to save money on toner? That’s false economy if you do it with your inkjet printer at home.) I’ve heard a lot of recommendations about exactly how much you really need to print, but a good guideline is at least 5 full color pages per week.

I’m familiar with that guideline, and I have plenty to print on my printer, so lack of full color page printouts wasn’t the reason why my printer’s head clogged. Other possible reasons include poorly formulated ink (possibly a factor in my case, as I unabashedly use compatible ink tanks that I buy online instead of expensive, genuine Canon brand ink), the trend towards ever-tinier ink nozzles to get those increasingly sharp inkjet printouts, and poor overall print head design. Canon and I will disagree on this, no doubt, but I have good reason to suspect that those latter two potential causes may have come into play in my case. But at least Canon gave my MB5120 a print head that can be removed (with effort) and cleaned or replaced if necessary. At least one other manufacturer whose printers I have owned makes it next to impossible to remove their print heads. I will leave them nameless for the time being.

After the clogged yellow nozzles were diagnosed, and the Canon-ized (sorry, couldn’t resist) fixes of cleaning and then deep-cleaning the print head via the menu had been tried fruitlessly, I began warming myself up mentally to the messy and somewhat time-consuming task of removing and cleaning the print head. This would not be my first time doing this; part of why I was so reluctant was because I knew I would be spending 2-4 hours between actually fixing the thing and trying not to get ink all over the place; the latter is the part I find most daunting.

For my Canon MAXIFY MB5120, the tools for the job include a #1 Phillips head screwdriver, a small, plastic container, some Windex window cleaner, some water, some paper towels, a spray can of 100% isopropyl alcohol (sold at Micro Center, for cleaning electronics) and a lot of patience. I’m not going to get into a lot of detail, because the detailed procedure would only help you if you own a Canon MAXIFY MB5120 or one of its MAXIFY MB series siblings. (They are mostly sold online, and, therefore, are not very popular.) There is a lot of variation in the way printers are put together. If you want specific instructions for working on your own printer’s print head, I recommend searching for your printer model on YouTube, iFixIt.com or both.

For my printer, the first step is removing the ink tanks, which takes a bit of ballet with turning the printer off, turning it back on and unplugging when you hear the print head do its power-on self-test sweep, because Canon, in an apparent attempt to protect us from ourselves, did not provide a menu-driven means of removing an ink tank before the printer detects that it’s empty. The second part of beating that “safeguard” is manually turning a plastic gear inside the printer in order to activate the cartridge eject mechanism. I had to do this four times, once for each ink tank. After the ink tanks are removed, out comes a clipped-in plastic shield. Now I have access to the print head, but before I can operate the lever that releases it, I must remove two hard-to-reach screws that are there because… well, apparently, because Canon thought it was a good idea. (Anti-magnetic screws in a recessed location just above a spot where the only place they can fall is into the innards of the printer? Really, Canon?!?)

With the print head finally out of the printer, my next step was to give the print head a several-hour soak in what amounts to a sitz bath of a 50/50 mix of Windex and water. Ideally, I would be using a solvent specially made for cleaning inkjet print heads. Also, ideally, I would be using a sort of syringe with a short hose made specifically to fit on the print heads ink input ports. And at very least, it would be best if I were using distilled water for mixing with the Windex and flushing later. But, again, I don’t fix printers on a regular basis, so I don’t have those things. So, a sitz bath of tap water and Windex would just have to do, followed by a careful water rinse, trying to blow it out with the spray alcohol, and then an overnight dry-out period of just sitting on a pad of paper towels.

Fast-forward to the morning, and I reverse the print head removal procedure to put the head back in the printer and reinstall the ink tanks. But the process isn’t over yet, because remember that those print heads are supposed to be made to help prevent the problem I was trying to fix in the first place. In other words, no matter how hard you try to dry the print head out, there’s going to be some water and solvent trapped inside. That’s probably for the best, if you think about it, because loosening and flushing out as much dried ink as possible from the print head, only to have something else dry in there and clog it, would be a bad thing. But until all remaining water and solvent are flushed out, your printouts are going to be fuzzy, prone to smearing, and possibly dripping. So, the first thing I did after putting it all back together was a print head Deep Cleaning via the menu. Since that basically tells the printer to flush out the print head with a substantial amount of ink, that should have been just the ticket for flushing out the leftover solvent. After the Deep Cleaning was done, I printed a test pattern and… seeing that I was still getting very little yellow ink in the test pattern, I did another Deep Cleaning. This time, the test pattern looked a lot better — not perfect, but at least passable — so, the next step was to start printing every full-color e-mail in my Inbox to make sure that ink got flowing and displaced any solvent still left in there. I should probably print another 50 pages or so before I attempt any photographs.

By now, you should have a pretty good idea of why I don’t fix printers. My Canon MAXIFY MB5120 would have cost about $200 to replace. At what I charge clients per hour, the 2-4 hours it would take for me to do something like this to your average printer would end up costing close to $200, and maybe more, and most of my clients with inkjet printers have models that cost less than mine. Note that most of the YouTube videos that show how to fix printers are made by technicians who live in countries other than the United States. In the US, computer hardware is cheap compared to labor. In many other countries, hardware is more expensive, and people are paid less, so repair is a more attractive option. But not here. So, why did I go to the trouble of cleaning my own printer’s print head? Let’s just suffice to say that due to circumstances beyond my control, it made more sense to take the time to fix it than to go shopping for a new one.

But, what about other kinds of printers? In the US, expensive laser printers and office copiers are worth fixing. In fact, many offices have service contracts for their copiers, because they can be very expensive to service. But I don’t handle those, either, because, as said earlier, fixing those requires special training and access to parts that I can’t get.

“CAN YOU GET ME A WEBCAM?” (NEW ANSWER: HOPEFULLY SOON!)

I’ve been getting this question a lot lately, and until today, my answer has been “Alas, no. The pandemic caused a run on webcams, just as it caused runs on toilet paper, hand sanitizer and a number of other commodities (most recently, interestingly enough, bakers’ yeast). The few that are available are either overpriced or dubious imports, with long delivery estimates.”

It’s easy to imagine why webcams have been in short supply worldwide. After all, most everyone has been working remotely and attending virtual school classes for over a month now in much of the United States, and even longer than that in some other parts of the world. This requires webcams, so those people whose desktops didn’t have one (and whose laptops came with crummy ones) rushed out to buy them. But unlike some of the other commodities that people began to hoard, webcams were simply a victim of short supply to begin with. People who buy traditional desktops usually don’t buy webcams for them, and most all-in-one desktops and laptops come with webcams that are at least acceptable. So, under normal circumstances, retailers don’t stock a lot of webcams. After all, no retailer wants to store large quantities of a product that people don’t normally buy in large numbers. Doing so means a long wait to recoup their cost, not to mention the shelf space that the slow-moving product occupies, which could be more profitably occupied by more popular products. And, of course, it’s similarly unprofitable for distributors to keep large quantities of webcams in stock, and for manufacturers to produce them in large quantities. So, once people realized they were going to be stuck working and learning from home, it didn’t take long, or panic-buying or hoarding behavior, for the webcams in the pipeline to sell out.

A month and a half into pandemic stay-at-home orders (in the USA, that is), reasonably priced, webcams are starting to reappear, and it no longer takes 6+ weeks to get them. But the familiar webcam brands are still missing, and a lot of the end user reviews, when they’re present, look suspiciously like ‘bot-generated fakes. I’m still getting calls from clients who need webcams, but who wants to buy an unknown, untested model in hopes that it works? Who is going to take that risk?

The answer is: Lebowitz IT Services will! I just ordered the webcam pictured in this post. (I am not posting a link at this time, because I am not prepared to recommend it before I try it out.) It has genuine-looking reviews, some including photos and video, and most of them are positive. It’s in stock now on amazon.com, and I expect to receive mine in a week or so. When I do, I will run it through its paces, compare it with my trusty Logitech C270 webcam, and let you all know the results. After that, if the webcam proves worthy, it will be resold at cost, and more will be ordered for others who need or want them.

“I don’t want to be a criminal. Will you do it for me?”

People who know me well know that I respect intellectual property rights and honor end user license agreements. The fact is that failure to do so is stealing. I didn’t sit down to write a treatise on this today, but suffice to say that there is case law (both secular and religious, for those who compartmentalize) to back my assertion up.

I received a call today from a client who needed remote assistance from a software company. It seems that the software company technician wanted my client to install TeamViewer so that they could log in remotely. The client was unable to do so, and called to ask me to do it. I told the client, as politely as I could manage, that the request was rather surprising, that I found it more than a bit offensive, and if the software company’s technician wanted TeamViewer on my client’s computer, they should find a way to facilitate this themselves.

So, what was wrong with this request? Simple: Contrary to what many people think, TeamViewer is NOT freeware. TeamViewer (the company) graciously permits free use of their remote access product for personal use only. They do not leave “personal use” to the imagination; they explain what personal use means as far as they are concerned, and provide concrete examples to illustrate it. Using TeamViewer to provide technical  support to another company falls squarely into the category of business use, at least as far as TeamViewer (the company) is concerned. Business use requires a license, and TeamViewer licenses range in cost from about $700 to thousands of dollars, depending on a number of factors. I’m not going to try to argue that TeamViewer is inexpensive for this, that or the other. The fact is that many technicians find TeamViewer to be the very best remote access software available. TeamViewer (the company) knows this, and thus justifies the premium price. My business can’t afford that premium price, but I don’t use this to make an excuse for violating TeamViewer’s intellectual property rights. I simply license and use a less expensive remote access product.

The reason I found the request offensive is because it told me three things about the software company (which, I happen to know, charges hefty licensing and maintenance fees for their own products): First, they’re too cheap to license remote access software that they need to provide support. (To reiterate: TeamViewer may be the best remote access software, but it is not the only remote access software. There are cheaper, and even free, alternatives for those willing to open their eyes and look.) Second, they clearly know that providing TeamViewer to their customers without a proper license is against the law, because other companies that license TeamViewer appropriately have easy ways to distribute the TeamViewer host software to their customers, and this software company is not doing so. But what really made me angry was the third thing: while the software company knows that distributing TeamViewer without a business license to provide tech support is illegal, and therefore will not do so themselves, they are perfectly happy to ask other people to install it, and thus break the law for them!

If someone doesn’t agree with intellectual property laws and end user license agreements, or just doesn’t want to play by the rules for whatever reason, we can agree to disagree. It’s not my job to police such things. But at least he should have the guts to commit the violation himself. I draw the line when someone asks me to be a criminal for him.